Pagudpud has been  a hot name in Philippine travel circle for some time but it has never quite lived up to its billing as the "Boracay of the North"- mainly because it was too far away and the resorts stank. Now a clutch of stylishly  renovated hotels, improved flight connections to Laoag and the next big thing on the surfing circuit street cred  are finally putting  this lonely stretch of coastline on the tourist map, although it remains decidedly  sleepy compared with Boracay.
Pagudpud actually  consists of three vast beaches, strung along Luzon's northern edge and hemmed in by headlands. Coconut-palm-backed Saud Beach is where most resorts are. Idyllic Blue Lagoon  is a few headlands east. Deserted Pansian Beach  is still further on, near the boarder of Cagayan Province.


At Blue Lagoon, Luzon's whitest sand  and bluest water conspire  majestically to be situated in one place. There's terrific  snorkelling here and despite the recent opening  of a few resorts, the beach is rarely crowded. Hannah's Resort hires out sea kayaks (P300 per hour). It;s 16 km from Saud to the beach turn-off, then another 4 km down a sealed road; from Saud it's a 45-minute tricycle ride (return P300). Both Blue Lagoon and Sud Beach are changing rapidly. One reason for this is Pagudpud's sudden popularity as a surfing spot - some real giants occasionally from at Blue Lagoon, and Saud also gets well-shaped if fickle waves. The peak surf season is August to October. Boards (P200 per hour) and lessons (P200 per hour) are available at Kapuluan Vista Resort. Be careful about swimming here when conditions are rough as there's  a nasty undertow.
Kapuluan Vista Resort (Phone: 0920 252 2528) www.tjhawaii.com/kvr

Saud Beach Accommodations
The resorts listed following  are sister resorts  clustered at the more attractive west end of Saud Beach.  There is really no reason to look anywhere else as these five  resorts cover all the accommodation bases. Rapidly expanding Terra Rika and Apo Idon are the fanciest of the lots; the latter has some fabulously designed rooms featuring Ifugao art and the capiz-shell windows. Evangeline's rooms are more austere and set back from the beach, but its wonderfully atmospheric  restaurant is on the right beach. Jun and Carol and Northridge  are the most backpacker-friendly. All have fre wi-fi.
Apo Idon (phone: 0918 933 4464); www.apoidon.com
Evangeline Beach Resort (phone: 0929 878 0335)
Jun and Carol Beach Cottages (phone: 676 0183,  0921484 7746); www.juncarolbeachresort.com
Northridge Resort (phone: 0920 220 5089)
Terra Rika Beach Resort (phone: 772 1845,  0918 937 1752); www.terrarika.4t.com


About 30 km to the west of Pagudpud is the impressive Cape Bojeador Lighthouse; closer by are the windmills  of beautiful Bangui Bay.